Are you coming to Rome in August?
You may have heard...
Actually, only one of those things is true.
Since I moved to Rome in 2001, I've come to cherish August here. The city empties out, it's quiet, and I can drive and park everywhere.
Alessandro and I embrace the heat, taking occasional trips to our nearby beach at Ostia for some downtime, as the Romans do.
And I love the excuse to eat more gelato than usual. (Do I need an excuse?)
If you're coming to Rome this month, I can tell you just how to make the most of it.
On this page you'll find:
Of the list above, this is the one that's true.
Yes, it gets hot and humid in August in Rome.
Or it can.
And it's one reason I love Rome in August. After living through more than 20 years of Roman summers, I have come to embrace the August weather. In fact, I have a secret for you.
I know this will sound strange, but almost without fail, I find July to be the hottest month.
August is usually more manageable. It's still hot, but it's slightly less humid, or at least it's not as oppressively steamy as July can get.
Usually during the day, it's in the high 20s °C/ low 80s °F...up to the mid 30s °C / mid 90s °F.
At night, it usually drops to the mid-teens (°C) / low 60s (°F).
At night, it's nice to walk around in short sleeves, even without a jacket.
I have two recommendations for you if you're coming to Rome in August.
The first is to stay in Trastevere.
August is the quietest point in the summer as many locals vacate the city, meaning you can expect calmer mornings and a slower pace to enjoy Rome.
And since Trastevere is such a local Roman neighborhood, it can feel extra quiet in August.
And while Trastevere is technically not in Rome's historic center, you're still central enough to be able to access sites, shops, and restaurants quickly and easily.
My second recommendation for where to stay in Rome in August is a hotel with a pool. It's not that easy to find a hotel with a pool in the center of Rome, but they do exist.
And if a pool is important to you, you'll find more options just a bit outside the city center.
If you choose one of these, just make sure you'll know how to get into the center and back when you want to go sightseeing.
In August, I wear sundresses or cotton or linen capri-length pants with tank tops.
You won't need jeans or anything with long sleeves.
I was out having dinner on a rooftop in August and found myself getting out my scarf when it got unusually breezy up there.
So a scarf is a great idea - also for covering up to go inside a church - and it can come in handy in case you come across a breeze like I did.
But you won't need a jacket or any heavy cardigans. I have a lightweight cotton-knit cardigan I sometimes carry with me in August, but I can't remember ever needing it.
We don't tend to wear shorts in the city, but Romans are used to tourists wearing them, so feel free to do so if you like.
Just remember to bring at least one outfit appropriate for visiting the Vatican. You'll need to have covered knees, shoulders, and midriff.
For the sun, bring a good sun hat, polarized sunglasses, and plenty of sunscreen.
Finally, I strongly urge you to leave the flip-flops at home (or bring them for the beach if you're planning to include a beach day or beach trip).
Flip-flops are too flimsy to handle Rome's cobblestones. Whatever shoes you bring, make sure they are sturdy and already broken in.
Visit my page all about what to pack for Rome in August for specific suggestions about what to wear in Rome in August.
For even more ideas and a downloadable packing list, see my page about what to pack for Rome, as well as my page about staying safe in Rome.
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You can expect hot, muggy weather, day and night. . . and pretty empty streets.
You can also expect crowds at the Vatican and Colosseum, because anyone who is in Rome is here for tourism, and those are the sites they want to see, just like everyone else.
Some shops and restaurants close for part of all the month, especially in the days surrounding the 15th, Ferragosto.
But plenty of shops and restaurants are open, even all month long. Even on August 15.
After I first moved to Rome in fall 2001, I spent my first August here in search of anything open: a supermarket, a pharmacy, and especially, a decent restaurant.
Yes, the capital of a G8 country shut down almost entirely, for the whole month of August.
I just could not believe it.
Things have changed a lot since then.
First of all, Italians simply cannot afford to go away for an entire month anymore.
It costs too much to take the whole family to the sea and rent a house for a month.
(Many Italians blame this on the changeover from the Lira to the Euro.)
Second of all, Italians who run small businesses are just as aware of globalisation as anyone else.
There is business to be had in Rome in August.
After all, even if the Romans are not here, the tourists sure are.
And guess what?
Many Romans are here too now.
That said, many shops and restaurants, particularly the very traditional Roman ones, do shut down for some or all of August.
However more and more shop owners are opting to stay open for some if not most of the month.
The same is true for restaurants, even some really good ones.
Click here to visit my page about where to eat in Rome in August.
I doubt I will see in my lifetime the old-time Roman restaurants such as Armando, Hostaria Romana, Trattoria Monti, Roberto e Loretta, Colline Emiliane and such, take less than a month off at August.
On August 15 in Rome, many major sites are open, with one big exception.
Obviously, all the fountains and squares are available for sightseeing.
Churches will be open and many of them with be holding mass this day, as it's the Assumption of the Virgin Mary.
The Vatican Museums, which include the Sistine Chapel, are always closed on August 15.
Some museums that normally close on a Monday, such as the Galleria Borghese, will remain open on the 15th if it falls on a Monday.
And so, to give their staff a "holiday" day, they may be closed on another day that week also.
Check the Vatican Museums (and Sistine Chapel) website as sometimes they close dates near the 15th as well, especially if the 15th falls on or near a weekend.
Some smaller places of interest close for part or all of August, such as the non-Catholic cemetery (usually closed for 2-3 weeks in August.)
It's funny, I keep hearing that August is high season in Rome.
Many travel websites also state this.
But we ran a B&B in the center of Rome for 17 years, and I can tell you that August has never been and certainly is not now, even close to high season.
August in Rome is a mix of mid- and low-season.
Why?
Here is what I think:
First, almost no Italians travel to Rome in August for their holiday.
Italians tend to spend their August holidays at the beach, in the mountains, or even abroad.
They come to Rome for tourism during other parts of the year, but not in August.
Second, August is family vacation time across Europe and North America.
Many of those potential tourists think just like Italians do:
Rome is too hot, so let's go spend our holidays at the beach.
Too hot in Rome in August?
Looking for a day trip?
Hotels will be more expensive at vacation spots like coasts, lakes, islands and mountains, but a day trip could be just the thing to get you out of the city and see something new and different and maybe even cool down.
This is the time to eat all the summer fruits and vegetables, such as peaches, apricots, melons, and plums; and eggplant, zucchini, tomatoes, basil, beans, and fennel.
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If you think Rome in August is kinda dead and everything is closed and there is nothing going on, you are in for a pleasant surprise.
There is a LOT going on in August in Rome:
Do you want to see Pope Leo XIV in Rome in August?
You may be in luck!
In recent history, popes have spent their summers outside of Rome, in the Papal summer residence at Castel Gandolfo.
Pope Francis did not take a summer holiday there, and held audiences throughout July and August.
However, Pope Leo spent some time at Castel Gandolfo in July and will spend a little time there in August.
This means that the regular Papal audience schedule will be different over the summer going forward.
Before requesting your tickets, make sure to check the Vatican calendar for the confirmed dates and events here.
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If you are a shopper, then you have two great but different reasons to love being in Rome in August:
Summer is a great time to do outdoor things.
And there's a lot you can do outdoors at night, like visiting the Colosseum by night, which is a bit cooler than during the day.
On the Free Sunday you can visit Rome's museums for free.
State-run sites like the Colosseum and Castel Sant'Angelo, as well as civic museums such as the Capitoline museums are all free on the first Sunday of the month.
The Vatican Museums are free on the last Sunday of the month, for limited hours.
For details, visit my page about Rome events in August.
Even if visiting the beach was not on your itinerary for your visit to Rome in August, I find that when Rome temps start soaring, many people ask how to get to the nearest beach.
Here's my definitive guide to the best beaches near Rome, and how to get there.
For current events, holidays, concerts, exhibits, festivals and more, visit my page about Rome events in August.
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Maybe it's your 2nd (or 3rd or 4th) time in Rome.
Or you have more than 3 days here.
Or you just want to see and do lots of fun things.
Besides the obvious must-see tourist attractions, there are lots of great things to see and do in Rome in August.
Here are some ideas for your visit:
You may also want to visit the website of the Rome Tourist Board.
Ready to book your trip to Rome? Take a look at these helpful links to companies we use and trust:
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